Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala – rain, cloud, lightning at El Mirador de la Nariz del Indio 2

Rainy season has finally caught up with us. It’s been at our back for months, ever snapping at our heels, following us north as we’ve backpacked our way through Central America. We’ll turn up in a new town, and the skies, inevitably, will be blue. We’ll roast in the sun for a few days. Then the cloud will come; rain hot on its heels. We’ll move on, to a new place, a little further north, where the rainy season is yet to arrive, and the process repeats itself. We’ve been lucky so far. We’ve kept ahead of the rain. But now, in Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala, our luck has run out.

Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

View of Lago de Atitlan from a lookout near the town of Solola. Photo credit: Benjamin White

It began raining shortly after we arrived yesterday afternoon. It rained all night. Heavy rain. Solid rain. Unrelenting rain. It seemed to have settled in, no sign of it ending. I was expecting a dreary morning to follow.

Storm over Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Storms over Lago de Atitlan at dusk. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

But no, sunlight streams through the windows when I open my eyes. That can’t be right. I get up and walk to the window. Blue sky outside, not a cloud in sight. The lake glistens seductively.

Lago de Atitlan

Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Won’t last. No point going out on the lake, I reason; we’ll get wet for sure. No point going to a lookout, or scenic viewpoint. No point going for a hike.

Breakfast comes and goes. It’s 8:00 am, 9:00 am, 10:00 am. The sun continues to shine. The blue sky remains in place. Lago de Atitlan continues to twinkle.

Dock at Panajachel, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

I figured wrong.

Today is the perfect day for an excursion. We should be out on the lake. We should be climbing to a lookout. How about the politically incorrect Mirador de la Nariz del Indio (the Indian’s Nose Lookout)? Yes. Let’s go.

Benjamin at Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Down to the dock, find a lancha (small boat used to ferry passengers about), pile in, take a seat, wait for it to fill. Ten minutes later we’re away, skating over the still water surface of Lago de Atitlan.

San Pedro, Lago de Atitlan

San Pedro, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

The streets of backpacker hub, San Pedro. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

We dock in San Pedro, and proceed up the main street. San Pedro is a backpacker hangout, less family-oriented than the town of Panajachel, where Ami and I are staying. San Pedro is unpleasant. It’s full of backpackers more concerned with their looks than in any travel experience. They come here to show off their carefully coiffed dreadlocks, their designer ripped shirts, their insouciant, devil-may-care attitudes. It’s Guatemala’s version of Bangkok’s Khao San Road.

Church of Saint Francis, Panajachel, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Church of Saint Francis in Panajachel. Photo credit: Benjamin White

Panajachel, on the opposite side of the lake, is overlooked by the backpacker hordes. It might be less trendy than San Pedro, but it’s also a whole lot less pretentious, and it’s my pick of the two.

Crossroads Cafe, Panajachel, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

If you’re in Panajachel and like coffee, don’t miss Crossroads Cafe. Photo credit: Benjamin White

A bit of wispy cloud in the sky as we duck into a tour agency; nothing to worry about though. Book a car and guide. Get in the car. Start driving.

(Take note: some unsavoury locals at Lago de Atitlan like to extract an unofficial tourist tax from visitors; they do this by blocking roads and threatening hikers. Take a guide with you, let them handle the thugs, and save yourself a potentially dangerous confrontation.)

San Juan, Lago de Atitlan

San Juan, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Celebrating San Juan’s Day in San Juan. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

We’re delayed in the neighbouring town of San Juan. It’s San Juan’s Day, and the whole town is out celebrating.

The main road through town is closed. We have to navigate the back streets, which are only wide enough for the passage of a single car, and clogged with traffic.

San Juan, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

We’re further delayed when we hit a section of mock roadwork, controlled by local thugs. This is where we pay our tourist tax. Traffic is funnelled between a row of parked-up trucks; thugs and layabouts surround the car. No one gets through without paying.

El Mirador de la Nariz del Indio

Cloud over Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Lago de Atitlan. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

The sky begins to darken as we climb, clouds sweep across the sky, covering the lake below.

It starts to rain as soon as we exit the car. Just light spittle at present, but judging by the colour of the clouds there is worse to come. Thunder rolls across the hills. We purchase two lightweight plastic sheets from a nearby store to use as makeshift ponchos. Our guide has his own raincoat; he knew what was coming.

Rain. And lightning. And wind. And thunder. It’s a wet, slippery climb to el Mirador de la Nariz del Indio. A narrow spike at the top of the mountain ridge. 360 degree views. Of Lago de Atitlan, and of the surrounding mountains. Or there would be if we weren’t fogged in. It’s a white out.

The Lookout

Nariz del Indio, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

White out at Nariz del Indio. Photo credit: Benjamin White

There’s a rudimentary shelter at the top. A couple of poles holding up a few pieces of corrugated iron.

I’m not so crazy about standing under an iron roof when there’s lightning about. The others don’t seem to care. Ami doesn’t care. Our guide, Jose, doesn’t care. The two construction workers don’t care. They’ll take their chances with the lightning.

Not for me. I’d prefer to stand in the rain. I go for a walk, retreating down the track a little, continuing along the narrow ridgetop.

Nariz del Indio, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Photo credit: Benjamin White

Someone – I couldn’t say for sure who it is; maybe the local council, maybe the landowner – is renovating the mirador. They’re trying to increase its capacity, make it larger, and easier to access.

Part of the works include carving the top off the ridge to make it a flat, even platform. Doing so has exposed the highly erosive soil horizons that sit below the topsoil. With the topsoil gone, and the tree roots that held the topsoil together also gone, this place is now at serious risk of landslide. Small landslides have already been occurring on the either side of the ridge, a taste of what is to come.

Nariz del Indio, Lago de Atitlan, Guatemala

Photo credit: Benjamin White

A few conifers and pines – the type seen in public parks through Central America – have been planted alongside the path to try and stabilise the site, but it’ll take years for these trees to establish themselves. And before then, this ridgeline will be gone. The first big rain event that comes through could wipe it out, and that will be the end of el Mirador de la Nariz del Indio.

Practical information and how to reach Lago de Atitlan:

The town of Panajachel on Lago de Atitlan can be reached from Antigua via one chicken bus if you find a direct connection, or via multiple chicken buses if you do not (we had to make 4 changes). Distance is roughly 100 km; trip time could be 3 – 5 hours.

There are plenty of companies in Lago de Atitlan offering transport from Panajachel to Semuc Champey. Routes, vehicles, time of departure, and conditions differ wildly. Expect a 12 hour journey minimum.

Lago de Atitlan is on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage status. Mayan ruins submerged in the lake are also being investigated by UNESCO.

More on Gautemala:

Guatemala City – colonial capital that offers tourists… fresh goat’s milk?

Semuc Champey – long way to go to see a waterfall. Is it worth it?

Tikal – Mayan pyramids and… the Millennium Falcon?

My favourite lakes:

Lake Nakuru, Kenya – two million flamingos all pooping in one lake

Lago de Yojoa, Honduras – dangerous? no! sleepy, serene, safe? yes!

Winter at Lakes Mashu and Kussharo, Akan National Park, Hokkaido, Japan

Ohrid, Northern Macedonia – want a meditatitive lake view? try St John at Kaneo

Trakai, Lithuania – iced-up lake + moody castle = haunting winter excursion

More on Central America:

Costa Rica:

Cahuita NP – toucans, agoutis, capuchins, howlers, and idyllic beaches 

Tenorio Volcano NP – how blue is Río Celeste in the wet season?

El Salvador:

Joya de Ceren – preserved beneath metres of ash, just like Pompeii

San Salvador – worth a visit?


Macaw Mountain – toucans, toucanets, aracaris, and… macaws

Copán, cashed up Mayan outpost builds Hieroglyphic Stairway


León – skip the volcano boarding, take in the UNESCO cathedral instead 

Ometepe – watch lenticular clouds form over Volcán Concepción

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