Riga, Latvia – 800 Art Nouveau dwellings + House of the Blackheads rev 2.0 2

Riga, Latvia, has had a pretty interesting life. It’s changed hands – or passed between empires is probably a better way to put it – no less than 11 times. You’d think such a place would be war torn, ripped to shreds, bombed to smithereens. But it’s not. Riga is pretty. Very pretty. Sometimes verging on twee.

Old City of Riga, Latvia

Photo credit: Benjamin White

The origins of Riga

The Livs, a Finnic group (from Finland/Estonia), had been living around the mouth of the Daugava River in the Gulf of Riga since 1800 BCE. They supported themselves through farming and fishing, and through trade with German merchants in the west, Vikings in the north, and Russians in the East.

Then Albert von Buxthoeven, from Lower Saxony (Germany), turned up. The Livs were pagans, you see. And Albert, a staunch Catholic, couldn’t stand such a thing. Not nasty pagans. Not if he had anything to do with it.

Riga Cathedral, Riga, Latvia

Riga Cathedral, built 1211 CE, by Bishop Albert. Photo credit: Benjamin White

He forced the Livs to give him land, by the mouth of the Daugava River, on which to found a Christian settlement. And thus, in 1201 CE, Riga was born.

Albert was made Bishop of Livonia by order of his Uncle, Hartwig, Prince of Bremen and Hamburg. When the Livs failed to convert to Christianity, Albert founded the Livonian Brothers of the Sword, a military order of German warrior monks, to convert the heathen masses by force (you can read more about the Brothers of the Sword, and their castle at Sigulda, in my post: Sigulda, Latvia – Medieval Castle of the Livonian Brothers of the Sword).

House of the Blackheads, Riga, Latvia

House of the Blackheads. Built 14th Century, bombed by the Germans during WWII in 1941, rebuilt in 1999. Photo credit: Benjamin White

Riga became part of the Hanseatic League – a confederation of merchant guilds – in 1282, joining other Baltic Sea ports such as Lübeck, Hamburg, and Bremen (now all in Germany), Visby (Sweden), Bergen (Norway), Tallinn (Estonia), Novgorod (Russia), and Gdańsk (Poland). Entering the Hanseatic League was a good move. Over the next few centuries Riga turned into a strong, rich, stable city.

The Three Brothers, Riga, Latvia

The Three Brothers. Dating from the 15th Century to 17th Century. Photo credit: Benjamin White

In 1561 Riga became a Free Imperial City under the aegis of the Holy Roman Empire. That lasted until 1582, when the city fell into the hands of the bi-confederated Kingdom of Poland and Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Then, in 1621, following the Polish-Swedish War, Riga became part of the Swedish Empire.

In 1721, another war, this time the Russo-Swedish War, saw Riga change hands again. Riga became the capital of a governate in the Russian Empire. Riga grew to become the 3rd largest city in the Empire (behind Moscow and Saint Petersburg).

Art Nouveau buildings, Riga, Latvia

Art Nouveau architecture. Photo credit: Benjamin White

At this point Riga was rich and powerful and filled with cashed-up bourgeois types. And what do cashed-up bourgeois types do? Spend their money on outlandish houses, that’s what. And the only style worth having at the time was Art Nouveau.

Art Nouveau buildings, Riga, Latvia

Photo credit: Benjamin White

Riga: Art Nouveau capital of the world

Art Nouveau was all about natural forms and curved lines. When it came to architecture, it was all about decoration, blending natural elements, like snakes, ferns, butterflies, peacocks, any silly thing really, into balconies, walls, and window frames.

Art Nouveau buildings, Riga, Latvia

Photo credit: Benjamin White

Over 800 Art Nouveau houses were built in Riga, making it the unrivalled Art Nouveau capital of the world.

Freedom Monument, Riga, Latvia

Freedom Monument. Built 1935 CE, in remembrance of War of Independence (1918-1920). Photo credit: Benjamin White

In 1917, during World War I, the city was briefly occupied by, and part of, the German Empire, but this lasted less than a year. In 1918, Latvia became independent, with Riga as its capital. But that didn’t last long either.

In 1940 Latvia was occupied by the Soviet Union, then captured and occupied by Nazi Germany a year later, and held in their grip for the next three years. In 1944 Riga went back to the Soviet Union, and stayed there until 1991, when Latvia, finally, returned to its own, wholesome, independent self.  Riga was once again the capital of the Republic of Latvia, as it remains at present.

Old City of Riga, Latvia

Photo credit: Benjamin White

Can’t remember all the manoeuvring? Here’s a summary:

  • 1800 BCE – 1201 CE            Home of the Livs
  • 1201 – 1282                          Bishop Albert arrives, begins Christianising the Livs
  • 1282 – 1561                          Hanseatic League
  • 1561 – 1582                          Imperial Free City
  • 1582 – 1629                          Bi-confederated Kingdom of Poland and Grand Duchy of Lithuania
  • 1629 – 1721                          Swedish Empire
  • 1721 – 1917                          Russian Empire
  • 1917 – 1918                          German Empire
  • 1918 – 1940                          Republic of Latvia
  • 1940 – 1941                          Soviet Union
  • 1941 – 1944                          Nazi Germany
  • 1944 – 1991                          Soviet Union
  • 1991 – present day             Republic of Latvia

Practical information and how to reach Riga:

Riga has an international airport with flights to major cities throughout Europe. Intercity buses run to Vilnius, Lithuania (2 hours), and Tallinn, Estonia (5 hours). More transport info here.

Read more on the Historic Centre of Riga in the UNESCO World Heritage listing.

More on Latvia:

Sigulda – a New Castle, a Medieval Castle, and Gutman’s Cave

Or visit my crappy capital cities page.

More on the Baltics:


Kaunas – medieval Old Town, once part of Hanseatic League

Vilnius – Gate of Dawn leads to medieval labyrinth

Trakai – iced-up lake + moody castle = haunting winter excursion

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