Lake Nakuru, Kenya – two million flamingos all pooping in one lake 2


During peak season Lake Nakuru, in southwestern Kenya, hosts between one and two million flamingos. It’s a gathering that has been described as the greatest bird spectacle on Earth.

Flamingos, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Flamingos. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Flamingos flock to the lake to feed on its algae. The algae grows there partly because the lake is shallow and alkaline – conditions that algae thrive in – but also because there is so much bird poop in the water. It’s a chicken and egg paradox.

Lake Nakuru National Park

Southern white rhino, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Southern white rhino. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

But Lake Nakuru National Park supports more than just birds. In fact the park has been considered a refuge for imperilled animals since the 1970s. The first refugees to Nakuru were a bunch of Rothschild’s Giraffes. Eastern White Rhinoceros followed. And Eastern Black Rhinoceros came behind them. Nakuru now has one of the highest concentrations of black rhinos in Africa.

Zebra and Cape Buffalo, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

The refugees were brought here to guard them from poachers. An electrified fence keeps the poachers out. Unfortunately the fence also restricts the animal’s movements, and prohibits migratory species from wandering through the park. Further expansions of the park’s boundaries are under consideration.

Elephant dung, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Ever wondered how much a rhinoceros poops? Me too.

Now I know.

Water buck, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Water buck. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

The electric fence also allows the national park to extend right up to the edge of Nakuru township. Humans and wild animals living side-by-side, free of conflict over food and land. All thanks to the fence.

Cape Buffalo, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Cape Buffalo. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Speaking of dangerous animals, Cape Buffalo are a cantankerous creature at the best of times, but the ones in Nakuru are particularly nasty. Each buffalo we passed made it clear they intended to run us down if we came anywhere near them. Keep your distance from these brutes.

Marabou Stork, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Marabou Stork. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

The Marabou Stork is my favourite bird in Africa. It’s the Grim Reaper of birds. The baby-delivering-stork that turned bad and now deals crack on the street corner.

Baboon, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Baboon eating a springbok. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

We pulled up alongside this Olive Baboon as we noticed it was eating something peculiar. It’s lunchtime meal turned out to be a baby gazelle. I’ve heard they also eat the flamingos.

Agama lizard, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Agama lizard. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Think taking part in a safari takes extensive planning, preparation, and cost?

Well, it doesn’t. Just arrive in Nakuru the night before your intended visit to the park. Ask around the hotels and restaurants and you’ll find someone willing to take you into the national park in their car. It’ll cost about the same as hiring a taxi for the day. You might want to inspect the car first.

Lake Nakuru, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Lake Nakuru viewed from Baboon Cliff. Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Nakuru is only 160 kilometres from Nairobi, so it can be done as a long day trip if desired. The best time to be in the park is early morning though, so it’s better to overnight in Nakuru.

Lake Nakuru, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Flamingos feeding in the shallow water of Lake Nakuru. Photo credit: Benjamin White

Water levels dropped alarmingly in the 1990s, and there was concern that decades of deforestation, urbanisation, and conversion of woodland to crop-based agriculture in Kenya, along with climate change, had irreversibly altered the environmental conditions that created Lake Nakuru.

Zebra, Lake Nakuru NP, Kenya

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Water levels have increased again in recent years, but the same threat remains, and climate change is inescapable. All the more reason to start planning that trip to Lake Nakuru now.


Practical information and how to reach Lake Nakuru:

Nakuru is a 4 hour drive from Nairobi. More transport info here.


More on Kenya:

Mombasa – Fort Jesus explored, and the Moi Avenue Tusks explained

Old Town, Lamu – 12th Century Swahili port city, caught in a time bubble

Ol Pejeta Conservancy – black rhinos, Grevy’s Zebras, and the elusive oryx


My favourite animal encounters:

Gelada baboons? Bleeding Heart Monkeys? 80s perms? The Simien Mtns, Ethiopia

South Luangwa NP, Zambia – camp alongside the hippo highway

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania – lions, rhinos, hippos, zebras in a 600m deep pit

De Hoop Nature Reserve, South Africa – perfect for your first self-drive safari

Humpback whale watching, Fafa Island, Tonga

Grande Riviere Beach, Trinidad and Tobago – leatherback turtle egg laying

or visit my unexpected animal encounters page


More on East Africa:

Rwanda:

Hiking amongst the Tea Fields of Gisakura

Kigali – clean, green capital with harrowing genocide tours

Tanzania:

Zanzibar, Tanzania – mystical paradise or cold, hard, tourist trap?

Climbing Kilimanjaro (Lemosho Route)

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania – lions, rhinos, hippos, zebras in a 600m deep pit

Uganda:

Kampala, Uganda – worth a visit?

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