Copán, Honduras – most beautifully carved of all the Mayan cities? 4

If you’re interested in locating the ruins of the Mayan city of Copán, just grab a map, scroll over to Central America, zoom in on Honduras, and run your finger along the border with Guatemala. The ruins are there, deep in the jungle, in the midst of the Central American isthmus.

Acropolis, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White

But the political borders of Honduras and Guatemala were meaningless to the citizens of Copán. Back in the day the Mayan civilisation stretched all the way across Mesoamerica, from (current day) Mexico to Honduras, covering an area about the size of Poland.

Copán was situated on the fringes of the empire; it was about as far south, and as far east, as the Mayans went. But a provincial outpost it was not.

Acropolis, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White


Occupation of the city dates all the way back to 1500BCE. The majority of the buildings that can be seen today, however, are from its glory years, between 426CE and 820CE, when the city was ruled by a dynasty of 16 kings.

Ornate carving, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

During this period Copán went on to become one of the most powerful of the Mayan city states, with a population of up to 25,000 people.

Acropolis, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White

This was during the height of the Classic Period (between 250CE and 900CE), when the Mayans were developing complex writing systems, acquiring a firm grasp on astronomy, coming up with a 365 day calendar, and building great temples and pyramids.

Copán, famous for its architecture, became one of the most ornate and beautifully carved of all the Mayan cities.

Ornate stela, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Its ceremonial plaza and processional ways were lined with portrait stelae (like the one in the picture above), created to honour the kings and record their many good deeds.

Hieroglyphic Stairway, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Hieroglyphic Stairway, Copán

The most impressive feature of Copán is the Hieroglyphic Stairway, made up of between 2000 and 2500 separate glyphs, which, when put together, form the longest known Mayan script in existence.

Hieroglyphic Stairway, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Unfortunately the glyphs bounced out of place during various earthquakes, and washed out of place during various flood events over the centuries. The archaeologists are still trying to put the pieces back in correct order.

Ballcourt, Copán

Ballcourt, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Right next to the Hieroglyphic Stairway is the Ballcourt, dedicated to the Macaw God.

Six stone macaw heads decorate the Ballcourt. Stylised macaw mosaics adorn the adjacent structures.

Wild scarlet macaws, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Amrita Ronnachit

Scarlet Macaws continue to frequent the ancient Mayan city (thanks partly to the breeding program undertaken at Macaw Mountain). The giant rainbow coloured birds can be seen flying across the central plaza during the early morning, and can be heard screeching across the site at all times of the day.

Doorway, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White

The last king of Copán, Yax Pasaj Chan Yopaat, ruled between 763CE and 820CE. This was towards the end of the Classic Period, a time when the entire Maya civilisation was in trouble. Decades of drought and disease had weakened the opulent city states. The divine rulers of the Mayan world were being seen as less and less divine; their hold over their subjects incrementally weakening. The Mayan civilisation slowly crumbled.

Copán was on the periphery of the Mayan civilisation but it wasn’t immune to the region’s environmental adversities, and it wasn’t spared from the civilisation’s internal warfare and ultimate downfall. The city was abandoned in the early 10th Century. There it lay, used only by jungle creatures, until the Spanish stumbled upon the ruins in the latter parts of the 16th Century.

Acropolis, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White

Restoration efforts began in the late 19th Century. Since then many key parts of the city have been rebuilt; pyramids have been neatly put back together, stelae uprighted, the Hieroglyphic Stairway slowly put back in order.

The rest of the site remains slumped where it fell, overgrown by moss, lichen, and trees.

Great plaza, Copan, Honduras

Photo credit: Benjamin White

As Mayan ruins go, Copán isn’t as grand or dramatic as Tikal, it doesn’t have a magnificent ziggurat like Chichen Itza, and it lacks pyramids to rival those of Uxmal, but the richness of its carvings gives the visitor a sense of its former affluence and splendour, and makes it one of the prettiest Mayan cities of all.

Practical information and how to reach Copán:

There are public buses running to Copán from San Pedro Sula (trip time is 4 – 5 hours). Private companies also run shuttle buses from Guatemala City (5 hours) and Antigua (6 hours). More transport info here.

Read more on the Mayan site of Copán in the UNESCO World Heritage listing.

More on Honduras:

Macaw Mountain – toucans, toucanets, aracaris, and… macaws

Lago de Yojoa – dangerous? no! sleepy, serene, safe? yes!

More on the Mayan Empire:

Chichen Itza, Mexico – posterchild of the Mayan Empire

Pyramid of the Magician, Uxmal, Mexico – built overnight by a superhuman dwarf

Tikal, Guatemala – Mayan ruins and… the Millennium Falcon?

Ek’ Balam and X’ Canche, Mexico – the perfect Mayan ruins / cenote combo

More on Central America:

Costa Rica:

Cahuita NP – toucans, agoutis, capuchins, howlers, and postcard-perfect beaches 

Tenorio Volcano NP – how blue is Río Celeste in the wet season?


Semuc Champey – long way to go to see a waterfall. Is it worth the effort?

Guatemala City – colonial capital that offers tourists… fresh goat’s milk?


Granada – sacked by Captain Morgan, ravaged by William Walker  

Ometepe – watch lenticular clouds form over Volcán Concepción

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4 thoughts on “Copán, Honduras – most beautifully carved of all the Mayan cities?

  • Karen White

    What an incredibly beautiful site. That staircase is fantastic and it must have been wonderful to see before it fell in disrepair. It will be great when it is put back in it’s original condition. What a treat to be there in the jungle city.

  • Arthur White

    Wow. What a fabulous place. I would love to do there- but as I am unlikely to ever get there I will just have to enjoy your description and photos.